Day 18 – Jurien Bay to Kalbarri – 387 km – 7455 km Total.

Well were to start.

Packed up early this morning before the rain.  Went for fuel and breakfast and met two guys from Perth on a KLR and a GS 800.  Over breakfast we discussed our plans for the day and they recommended the coastal run to Kalbarri. 

They were on the way there to do some offroad stuff.  Took their advice as it has worked in past few days.  Was an interesting road with varied scenery and then got through Geraldton after picking some oil.  After leaving Geraldton heading towards Kalbarri again along coast.  Again a good run with some great coastal cliffs near Kalbarri and thats were things went bad. 

Was talking to a couple from Brisbane doing a lap on a pair of KLRs and the Vstrom decided to have a little lie down in the table drain.  Managed to slow its descent a bit and with their help get it back upright with no real damage.  just some mud on the crash bar bag and a couple of scratchs under the pannier.  Kenneth and Wuffy checked out the pannier damage for me.  All part of this long distance touring game.

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After that on the run into town, got hit by the the heaviest rain I have every experienced. Too late for wet weather gear. 

Then the day improved when I checked out the accomodation I was told about this morning,  got a twin room in the Kalbarri Palm Resort for $55. 

Then went up to the Tourist Info to sort were next and got hit by another downpour and found out they had no rain here for the last 83 days.  Been several more heavy downpours since so will be interesting to see what the morning brings.  Might stay here tommorow if the weather is bad.

Day 17 – Bunbury to Jurien Bay – 415 km – 7058 km Total.

Well today got off to a “fun” start.  Woke about 6:30 to the sound of rain on the tent.  Managed to pack up in light rain without getting everything soaked.  Glad I am carrying the two little blue tarps.  They came in very handy this morning.

Headed off towards trying to stay off the expressway and follow the coast. That worked out ok until just before Fremantle so took the freeway into Perth heading to Tyres for Bikes who were fitting the new rear tyre for me.  Got there just before lunch and it was suggested by the guys that the pub next was good for lunch while they fitted the tyre.  They had some fun getting the Vstrom through the door with the panniers but they managed.  Interesting little shop, full of every bike tire you could think and no rear access.  Everything comes in and out the front door.

Asked the manager, whose name I have forgotten, the best way out of Perth and he drew a rough map and suggested I follow the new coastal road that was upgraded in 2010.  Much more interesting riding through huge white coastal dunes that down a freeway.  Decided not to stay in Perth as the weather is supposed to not good there for the next few days and cities aren’t my thing anyway.   Fishing seems to be the things at Jurien Bay going on the fishing gear around the caravan park.

Off towards Geraldton tommorow and organise an oil change for the Vstrom as its overdue.  Not bad seeing I did the last one 18 days ago.

Day 16 – Augusta to Bunbury – 315 km – 6643 km Total.

Now been to the most south-westerly point on the continent which is Cape Leeuwin.  It is named after the Dutch ship that first charted that corner of WA long before Cooke “discovered” Australia.  Had a look around the lighthouse etc.  Kenneth kept Wuffy company in the carpark as there was a sign saying no dogs so Wuffy had to miss out.

Then as suggested I headed north towards Dunsborough along Caves Road so named due to the local limestone caves.  Decided to give the caves miss as they have alot of stairs which my knees are a bit over after the lighthouse.  Not a bad little drive with varied scenery and some more fun bike road.

Had lunch in Dunsborough at the Bakery.  Predictable arent I.  Good coffee though.  The town itself though somewhere I wanted out of ASAP.  Typical of your grossly over developed tourist town and it stayed like this all the way to Busselton.  

The thing that was recommended to by a friend was a tour of the pier.  Not usually my sort of thing but it turned out to be the highlight of the trip so far.  The pier itself is the longest timber pier in the southern hemisphere.  From memory about 1.6 km long.  Bought a ticket for the tour which consist of a ride a little train to the end of the pier.  At the end, there is now an underwater aqurium.  Aqurium does not really descibe it.  Think of a large pipe standing upright on the seabed 8m down with windows and stair inside it. When you at the bottom you are are looking at the surface from the seabed.  Heaps of different fish and stuff growing on the pylons.   Also our guides other job was that she was one of the scuba divers that cleaned the windows each week.  You could tell she really loved her job.

After the train trip back an hour later I headed off towards Bunbury and am camped in town for the night.  Put the tent up and went a get some fish and chips at a place recommended by the caravan park owner.  She did not lie,  up there with the best of them.  Even Kenneth agreed.

Problem now is that is raining as I sit in the tent typing this and I also need to organise a rear tyre for the Vstrom as the current one may not get me to Darwin so best to replace it now so might have to be around Perth until Monday.   See what tomorrow brings.

Day 15 – Albany to Augusta – 462 km – 6333 km Total.

Good day.  Left Albany about 7:30 and took the “scenic” route towards Denmark.  Cows, sheep and driving next to railway just do not seem very scenic to me and I wondered what was  to come.  Had a great breakfast and coffee at Demark. Small but very nice town.  Just before the town the trees started getting much bigger so I took the Forestry drive option instead of the highway.  Now the trees kept bigger and it was starting to get interesting. 

At one stop I found out the large trees were Tingle trees.  Kenneth thought this was very funny.  From memory they grow to 10m girth and 70m tall.

For most of day after Denmark, the road was through National Park forests of these trees with the canopy joining overhead.  The road itself was undulating with one sweeping bend leading into another.  Great stuff on the bike.  Also did a forest drive on dirt for 60 km or so. Really spectatular and the Vstrom handled the road better than I was expecting.  Attempted the Tree Top Walk at the Valley of the Giants but I decided that was enough after the second section as the walkway moved too much for my liking and the next bit looked worse.  Kenneth hid in the Top Box so he did not have to watch.

Got out the other side of forests around three and back into farmland so decided to press on to Augusta.  Off the lighthouse near here in the morning as this the most south-westerly point so the journey north begins tommorow.  Not sure were I will get to but plan to be in Perth at the weekend.

Day 14 – Esperance to Albany – 550 km – 5871 km Total.

Headed off to Albany this morning.  Pretty standard farming land early on to light scrub to some hardwood plantations near Albany.

Only other thing was at the Ravensthorpe Servo which had the worst coffee I can remember ever paying for.  Tried again at Jerramungup (great names) and that was up there with the best.  Staying in a cabin again after I got offered a good deal. 

Quickly unloaded the bike and headed out to the old Whaling Station.   The station closed in November 1978 and alot of the original buildings and equipment remain onsite along with one of the last of the Norwegian built Whalechaser ships in dry dock.  Got there in time for the last guided tour of the day.  Very interesting place and something that continued in Australia long after I believed we stopped whaling.  Whaling actually stopped for commercial reasons due to the fuel costs for the Whalechasers.

Plan for tommorow is to have a look around the coast here in the morning and then head off towards Augusta.  Not sure how far I will get, depends on what I find here in the morning.