Day 32 – Katherine to Batchelor – 350 km – 12930 km Total.

Well the started out well with the breakfast cruise in Katherine Gorge.  We were served a full cooked breakfast plus all the other usual stuff.  The boat had no fixed seats and was set out with tables and chairs so you could watch the canyon going by.

Did not do the heli trip as they had no other bookings for the day and two is the minimum unless I wanted to pay double.

So it was off towards Bathelor.  At the roadhouse at Pine Creek I had a nice long chat with a german couple Helmut and Bea.  They are riding  a pair of fully rebuilt Honda Africa Twins that are over twenty years old.  They started a round the world trip in Germany 11 months ago and have crossed Russia, Mongolia, Siberia, had to miss China due to cost of a guide at 10 thousand euro, Cambodia, Loas, Indonesia, East Timor and after three weeks they finally got their bikes out of customs to start the Australia leg.  All this was with no outside support.  The bikes look to have been very well prepared and you get the impression that alot of planning and work went into the prep.  The world needs more people like these two.

After that,  I took the advertised scenic route.  Not scenic at all, just more cattle station country and the only two points of interest, a couple of waterfalls were still closed.  It was also the roughest tar road I have ever been on. 

After that got to Batchelor and headed out towards the national park to find the caravan park.  Had a choice of two,  first one looked Ok and the second one looked not so good so turn around and go back to the first one.

At this point, the Vstrom and me had our first serious falling out.  Not exactly sure what happened but I think it stalled as I did the u-turn but the next thing the Vstrom is on the deck in the middle of one side of the road and I got tossed over it and ended up on the other side of the road. It was at this point I discovered I can pick it up if I have to and the safety gear I wear was worth every cent I paid for it.  Only damage to the bike was a badly gouged hand guard but still perfectly functional and the right pannier now matches the left one.  Only damage to me was a bruise on my left knee from hitting the road but thats it.  All the other padding etc did its job and not skin missing at all.  Bit shaken but will be fine once I get going again in the morning, these things happen.  Kenneth and Wuffy are still not too happy with me at the moment but they should be fine by the morning.

Now to the good bit after that,  booked into this little caravan park. Was shown a huge patch of grass with shade all day and was told to camp wherever I wanted.  When i asked about amentities, I was shown the bathroom, yes I did say bathroom in the camp kitchen for my use as I am the only camper.   Not bad for $10 at night.  They both came down later in the day to check how I was going after the accident, which was nice.  So I staying here for the next three days while I go the Litchfield which is 20 km away and the Darwin is only 100 km away.   No worth moving and the owners have offered to look some of my gear if I want to leave it behind.

Then its is probably south as most of Kakadu is still closed so its probably not worth the km to go there, as I have been there before.

Day 31 – Kununurra to Katherine – 561 km – 12580 km Total.

Well it stopped raining just before I left Kununurra this morning and just ended up being hot and humid.

Interesting navigation needed to get to Katherine.  Turn left out of the caravan park and thats it.  Shame about the 550 km till you get there. Had two stops for fuel and I hope the servos are closer together now I am in the Northern Territory as the Vstrom likes at a drink at the 130 kph speed limit here.  Range is down to around 250 km.  The time zone is still messing with my head as the time went forward 1.5 hours.  So now I am only half an hour in front of NSW.

Camped at Katherine Gorge Campground.  Has not changed much since I was here 18 years ago.  Off on a breakfast cruise at 7:00 in the morning and then hopefully a heli trip through the canyons if I can organise it the morning.

Then its off to Litchfield tommorow afternoon sometime.

Day 29 – Kununurra – 0 km – 12009 km Total.

Well that was different.  First day in over a month I have not ridden the bike.

Got a phone call from the tour company early to apologise that the tour would have to a bit different than planned as the Hydro plant was not running today so there would not be enough water to get the boat up to the normal starting point near the dam.  Originally it was bus out to the dam and then cruise back to town.  Ending up being bus out the dam and nearly back into town to the first point upstream they could get us on the boat.

Not much the tour compamy could do but we still got the see got to go upstream as far as we could get.  Main difference was now that we were travelling upstream most of the time the trip towards the dam at which point the sun set and the trip back down was a high speead run at night as we were a hour and half later than normal getting back.

Still very good day.  Lake Arglye is huge and the statistics about its capacity and the water flow rate over spillway during the wet season are behind belief.   In most years, more water still flows the 100 km to the ocean than is retained by the lake.  Our tour boat captain used to be a commercial fisherman on the lake and as it so large is classified as an inland sea, the commercial fishing boats have to been rated the same as ocea going vessels.  He has been out in a storm with 4 metre waves. 

The cruise was mostly between cliffs that at times dropped straight into the water.  Also got some little rock wallabies that live on the cliff and a few fresh water crocs.  They are trying to keep the salt wate crocs out with measures down stream and none have been sighted for a few years but I will not be going swimming in the lake anytime soon with its five to seven thousand fresh water crocs.  Does not seem to to worry the local though.  Also to note a very bad thing, the cane toad has made it first appearance here this year and there is concern over its effect of the native animals here but only time will tell.

Off on my flight over the dam and the Bungle Bungles in the morning and then off towards Darwin on Friday.

Day 28 – Mary Pool Campground to Kununurra – 487 km – 12009 km Total.

Headed off early after one of the better camps for the night,  best price to date, free.  Put the extra 5 litres of fuel I am carrying in the bike at the campsite as Fitzroy Crossing to Halls Creek is the longest leg in a while and I used a bit  extra last night making the camp.

Got to Hall Creek with about 4 litres of fuel left and the first roadhouse was closed so went to the other one and its closed also.  Well this going to interesting as I only have fuel for about 80 km on an economy run.  Went to the Police Station and there was a notice about another servo at the local Toyota dealer so that got me out of that problem.  Lets just say that Halls Creek joined Fitzroy Crossing on my short list of towns I never want to visit again.

Just after Halls Creek, there was a huge improvement in the scenery as you are near the Bungle Bungles.  Huge rocky outcrops which at times tower both side of the road and the road twists between them.  It was like that for most of the way into Kununurra which was a pleasant change from the hundreds of kilometres of mostly burnt off cattle station country over the last couple of days.

Got into Kunnunurra and found a cabin at the second park I went to.  Bit dear but the boys love the view.  The main window in the overlooks Lake Kunnunurra about 50m away with a big rocky outcrop as a backdrop.  Here for three nights to have a bit of a break at what is pretty close to the halfway point of the trip. 

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Off in the morning on a tour which is a bus trip out to the dam and then a river cruise back into town and then on Thursday, a flight over Lake Argyle and the Bungle Bungles.  Let someone else drive for once, as they even pick me up from the park.

Day 27 – Broome to Mary Pool Campground – 645 km – 11522 km Total.

Made a reasonable early start and headed off towards Derby for a look even though most of the travel things I had read said don’t bother unless you are planning on doing the Gibbs River Road which I would like to but have the wrong bike for that trip.

As you get near Derby the Boab trees start appearing.  Something different and then on the way into Derby had a look a the famous boab tree that used as a jail cell years ago.  Apart from that the reviews were pretty right, just a reasonable little town but not alot outside that.  You could see it was geared to support the Gibbs River Road traffic with a few 4wd places and some pretty heavy duty recovery vehicles.  Think they might charge a bit for their services though.

On the way out of Derby, I checked out the scenic flights over the Buccaneer Archipelago that I got a brochure in Broome for that leave from Derby.  Was not that interested but thought I would ask, seeing I was there anyway.  First issue was the price of $685 and then, wait for it, they now fly out of Broome and not Derby.  It was old brochure.  So bye bye Derby.

So off to the next town along the way to Kununurra which was Fitzroy Crossing for a fuel stop.  After an issue at the servo changed my mind about staying there the night, I headed off towards Halls Creek. 

As was getting late, the plan was ride until it starts getting dark and then stop at one of the campgrounds along the way.  The first was a pile of rocks so headed for the next one which was at Mary Pool on the Mary River about 100km short of Halls Creek.  Used a bit of fuel to get there before dark but one of the more pleasant surprises of the trip.  Road in was not very inspiring and you then crossed a long concrete causeway and here was the campground.  Lots of large trees, slashed grass areas and three septic toilets.  There was about 10 caravans and 5 tents spread about the place.  Thought this will do for the night and after pitching the tent, started to make tea when I remembered I had not restocked the food bag for a while so it was the “interesting” combo of Chicken and Corn Soup and a can of Tuna in Springwater for main course.  Desert was some dried apricots and a coffee.  That left me the Fruit Salad, a Muesli Bar and more coffee for breakfast.  Very peaceful campsite as not long after dark everone seemed to turn in for the night until daybreak.

The only catch with this campsite was it had the first “beware of crocodiles” sign for the trip.  Not a real issue at present as the river is virtually dry but still followed the guidelines and did not camp close to the river.  Kenneth was very nervous about the whole crocodile thing and Wuffy did not help when he suggested that he would OK as the crocs being Australian would probably go for the chinese takeaway option for tea.  Kenneth calmed down after a while but he still insisted on sleeping in the top box.

The plan for the morning is to make Kununura by around 2 and see if I can find a cabin for the next three nights and organise some tours of the Lake Argyle and the Bungle Bungles.  Could not organise anything as campground had no phone coverage.

Group Photo

Sharon asked for a group photo and thanks to our german neighbour in Port Hedland here it is. Sorry if the unkept bearded one scares anyone.  Hope it works this time.

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